Text and photos by Mary Peachin
Vol. 30/ No. 2/3
December and January 2025/26

Abundant wildlife, the animals of the Pantanal are estimated to include 650 bird species, 127 reptiles, 47 amphibians, 400 species of fish, and 3,500 plants that inhabit this mosaic of marsh and islands. It is estimated that there are 100 different mammals including 10 million caiman, capybara, maned wolf, giant anteater, and giant river otter… just to name a few.

Brazil’s Pantanal’s 75,000 square mile ecosystem is the world’s largest seasonal wetland. The area begins near the Upper Paraguay River in the midwestern state of Mato Grosso do Sul. This South American wildlife sanctuary edges the freshwater Cuiaɓa River until it drains into the Atlantic Ocean. In 2000, UNESCO declared the area a World Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve.

Gafa Guilherme would lead ten of us from our São Paulo gateway on an eight-day Natural Habitat safari including both the north and south Patanal. We would travel on the Trans-Pantanal Highway (a two-lane dirt road crossing 123 bridges) from the city of Cuiabá to our first stop at Araras Ecolodge. We would spend two days before continuing to Porto Jofre. After three nights, we would fly by chartered aircraft to Caiman Ecological Refuge where we spent three nights at Campo Grande before returning to São Paulo.

Departing the village of Cuiabá, before heading into the Patanal, we stopped for lunch at Mirante das Águas, a roadside restaurant. Marmoset monkeys played in the tree while we dined on local fish including sharp tooth piranha-like pacu, freshwater pintado catfish, large pirrarucu, red tail pike-like cachorro, flat cartilaginous arraia, and piranha-based fish soup.

Entering the gateway to the Pantanal’s savanna we saw the gold and coal mines that attracted the conquistadors to the area. Scattered in the red earth were termite mounds, along with black ones nestled in trees. Brahman white cattle graze in fields.

The village of Pocone, (35,000 population) is located at the gateway to the Patanal’s northern entrance. Guides Gafa Guilherme and Max Abril shared their extensive knowledge of the flora, fauna, and animals that we were seeing. Some of the more exciting sitings were a rarely-seen tapir, Jabiru stork (symbol of the Pantanal), and long-legged limpkin. There were colorful flocks of parakeets, nesting hyacinth blue McCaw, and toucan. The herds of Brahman cattle, their ribs protruding and looking anorexic are used for breeding. A South American Coati, similar in appearance to a raccoon was another seldom sighting. There is a contrast in vegetation between root entwined fig trees and multiple tall spins of white-flowered mandacaru cactus.

Our first stay was at charming, but rustic Posada de Aracas. Our safari carried us in a small boat as we motored the Cuiaɓa River. During those three days, we would view 10 separate jaguars’ sitings observing them resting, stalking, and hunting their prey of capybara and caiman.

The jaguar, highlighted by rosette spots, is the largest cat next to the lion and tiger. It has strong jaws and lives primarily on a diet of caiman and capybara. It is not considered nocturnal allowing visitors to view it actively during the day.

Cruising the Cuiabá River produced a jaguar mother a two-year old cub resting on a tree branch as three boats of excited viewers frantically shot photographs for approximately 20 minutes. The mother eventually nudged her son into the jungle.

Years ago, locals hunted jaguar for their pelts until they realized the cats were more valuable alive than dead. For a decade, hunting was banned and Brazil became a leader in protecting all its wildlife. During that period, locals fishing the river ignored the jaguars who became accustomed to seeing humans. They no longer felt threatened.

The long dusty road to Porto Jofre provided sightings of maguari storks. Their long bill, red legs with black flight feathers contrasted with its white body. Colorful toucan sat on tree branches; a small rare white-chested Tayra mammal darted across the road. Marsh deer surrounded pool where egrets fed. Southern screamers rested in trees, a flock of rosette spoonbills flew overhead in a V-shaped formation.

Spending two nights at the Hotel Pantanal Norte in Puerto Jofre, we were thrilled by nine separate jaguar sitings from our small boat. Whenever a jaguar was sighted, the information was shared with other safari boats, creating a crowded situation like a “bear jam” in Yellowstone.

The following day we watched capuchin monkeys playing in the trees, a red Brocket deer darted into the jungle. After sighting a water buffalo, an animal that enjoys a ferocious reputation, the skies opened to pouring rain. Hearing thunder, we motored away from the storm for some much-anticipated piranha fishing.

Having fished for piranha in Peru’s Amazon, I had requested the opportunity from Natural Habitat. Providing two bamboo poles, and meat for bait, the fishing was very successful. As we passed the pole around, I shared the opportunity with the others. After most of us had a turn hooking and releasing a piranha, we motored on. Everyone seemed to be excited about the experience.

Flying to Campo Grande in two chartered Cessna aircraft, our stay at Caiman Lodge would include both day and evening safaris in an open-sided cantilevered vehicle. We followed a red soil single lane road lined with mango, fig, and cashew trees.

Some of our sitings included white-faced and green ibis, black-collared and savannah hawks, silver-crested caracara, ostrich-like rhea, marsh, and red brocket deer. While jaguars are less common in the area, we managed to see one, numerous crab-eating foxes, and an exciting bonus- a giant anteater.

Our last evening, before returning to São Paulo to catch our homeward flights, we experienced a churrasco, spit-roasted meat grilled personally carved at your request tableside. In São Paulo, we would enjoy a farewell dinner at a local restaurant serving a variety of Brazilian favorites.

The Pantanal was a safari that surpassed my imitation. Brazil protects it wildlife which is why there is such an abundance of it. The jaguar sitings were especially exciting. The variety of species included many that I have never seen. This trip was not easy, nor luxurious, but it ranks as one of the most interesting and exciting experiences of my life.