Hiking among Komodo Dragons

Text and photos by Mary L. Peachin

September, 2015, Vol. 19, No. 12

Indonesia Komodo dragon - Mary L Peachin
Indonesia Komodo dragon – Mary L Peachin

Biting to kill, once the komodo dragon gets a taste of blood, it is impossible to separate it from its prey. Venom in its toxic saliva creates a deadly bacterial infection, one that kills slowly. Once the prey dies, the komodo will devour every morsel, even the hide. The world’s largest monitor lizard has no predators.

Komodo dragons congregate only while feeding or mating. Otherwise, they tend to fight with one another and cannibalize their young, weak and old.

Older lizards often die from starvation. In Komodo National Park, Indonesia, an estimated 2,500 dragons live on five of the Park’s islands. They swim, propelled by their long tail, between the islands.

Komodo island summit - Mary L Peachin
Komodo island summit – Mary L Peachin

Sunning during daylight, when they reach their optimal temperature they have the energy to hunt. It is said that they can smell prey as far as seven miles away. Close to ten feet in length, they weigh as much as 150 pounds.

Females lay up to eighteen eggs which incubate for ten months. Mating through May to August, their eggs are laid in September. About twenty eggs are deposited in abandoned or self-dug nests. The eggs will hatch the following April, about a period of seven to eight months, hatching in April, a time when insects are most plentiful. Hatchlings are vulnerable to cannibalistic adults. They avoid being eaten by living in trees for two years. They won’t mature for about eight to nine years, and are estimated to live for up to thirty years.

Komodo island summit - Mary-L-Peachin
Komodo island summit – Mary-L-Peachin

Komodo’s arid, hilly island provides scenic views. Two rangers, carrying forked sticks, led us for an hour and a half hike. We sighted most of the dragons hanging out near the ranger station.

As we climbed from the visitor center on Loh Liang to a hill overlooking the bay, we could see our dive liveaboard boat The Arenui in the distant bay. We also saw the dragon’s prey, water buffalo and Timor deer. Several times we sighted komodos along the trail, one drinking from a stream.

Komodo at water hole - Mary L Peachin
Komodo at water hole – Mary L Peachin

Locally, the komodos are called “Ora.” Their population has increased to 1,100 on Komodo Island with about half of them living on nearby Rinca Island. They are considered the most famous indigenous species found in Indonesia 17,000 island archipelago.

Komodo National Park 1,817 square kilometers (0.7 square miles) includes the islands of Komodo, Rinca, Padar, and Gili Motang along with several small islands in Sapa Strait located between Flores and Sambawa.

Komodos on Rinca beach - Mary L Peachin
Komodos on Rinca beach – Mary L Peachin

Recent research suggests that the size of the komodo dragons may be descendants of an extinct prehistoric Pleistocene population of carnivorous varanid lizards that once inhabited Indonesia and Australia. Similar Australia fossil discoveries of V. komodoensis have been found dating back about four million years ago. Their size allowed them to dominate ecosystems.

In 1910, Western scientists first recorded komodo dragons. Their large size and fearsome reputation made them popular zoo exhibits, but they were susceptible to disease and did not live well in captivity. In the wild, their range has been limited by human activity. They are now under the protection of Indonesian law, which created Komodo National Park.

Komodo drinking water - Mary L Peachin
Komodo drinking water – Mary L Peachin

The Komodo dragon prefers hot and dry places, and is typically found in dry open grassland, savanna, or low elevation tropical forest. They are primarily active during the day, although some nocturnal activity has been recorded. They are capable of running rapidly in brief sprints up to twelve miles per hour (20 k). They can dive to depths of fifteen feet. Young dragons, because of their strong claws, are proficient at climbing trees. In order to reach prey, they are capable of standing on its hind legs, while using their tail as support. Mature dragons use their claws as weapons, their size makes climbing impractical.

Komodo prey water buffalo - Mary L Peachin
Komodo prey water buffalo – Mary L Peachin

For shelter, the Komodo dragon digs holes that measure three to ten feet using their powerful front legs and claws. Their habit of sleeping in these burrows allows them to conserve body heat throughout the night thus minimizing basking time. Hunting in early afternoon, they spend the hottest part of the day in the shade. Resting places, usually located on ridges cleared of vegetation and offering a cool sea breeze, are marked with droppings. The ridges serve as a great place to ambush prey.

While komodos prefer the ease of eating carrion, when ambushing prey, they make a stealthy approach. When the opportunity arises, the dragon will suddenly charge the underside or throat of the animal. They use their strong tails to knock down large pigs and deer.

Mary diving - Komodo Islands Indonesia - Bitten by Sharks
Mary diving – Komodo Islands Indonesia – Bitten by Sharks

After eating as much as 80 percent of its body weight, the dragon lazes in a sunny location to speed digestion. This is done to prevent undigested food from rotting or poisoning the dragon. Their slow metabolism allows them to survive with an average of twelve meals a year.

After digestion, the Komodo dragon regurgitates a gastric pellet, a mass of horns, hair, and teeth covered in a putrid mucus. It may then rub its face in the dirt or brush, an indication that it does not like its own mucus scent.

Similar to most animals in the wild, the largest eat first followed by size hierarchy. Larger males assert their dominance while smaller males submissively rumble hisses or use aggressive body language. Some of equal size may resort to wrestling.

Indonesia Arenui Komodo
Indonesia Arenui Komodo

As we walked among the dragons, I didn’t feel threatened, but always concerned. They appear to avoid encounters with humans and the juveniles scurried away. Older dragons are known to retreat from humans unless cornered. When threatened, they will hiss, and swing their tail. Having great respect for wild animals, I would never allow my presence to threaten them.