written and photographed by Mary L. Peachin
Dec 1996, Vol. 1 No. 3
Golden stalks of kelp sway in the current as lovable sea otters float on their backs in the surface wave. They are busily crunching oyster shells to feast on the tasty shellfish. Captivated visitors can admire this state of the art exhibit at the Monterey Bay Aquarium. Virtuality distracts the viewer of the awareness of a glass barrier separating the kelp forest and playful otters in this magnificent underwater setting. The Aquarium, founded in 1984, is located in Cannery Row, a pier originally built and used by the sardine canning industry.
A one million-gallon three-story aquarium, called The Outer Bay exhibit, showcases sharks, “homely” ocean sunfish that can grow as large as 10 feet and weigh 3000 pounds, green sea turtles, barracuda, and schools of tuna.
Like a fine art gallery, the Aquarium continually offers new exhibits that feature different species of ocean life. During our visit,”Deadly Beauties” displayed two dozen poisonous marine species including venomous sea snakes, endemic to the Philippines, and temperate water lionfish fluttering beautiful feathery spines. There were harmless appearing highly-toxic cone shells and spectacular schools of pulsating jellyfish.
The cities of Monterey and nearby Pacific Grove offer a central reservation number for lodging reservations. We chose to stay at the charming Old Monterey Inn. Surrounded by beautifully groomed gardens, the 1929 Tudor-style manor house is an enchanting hideaway in the heart of the city. The home has ten elegant guestrooms, each with a private bath. A full breakfast is served in either the formal dining room or in the comfort of your room.
Monterey is located 120 miles south of San Francisco and can be reached by the old scenic Route 1, or Highway 101.
San Francisco’s Underwater World is a $9 million underwater extravaganza located near Fisherman’s Wharf. After entering the building, visitors follow an underwater-like journey traced from a drop of water from the San Francisco Bay to the depths of the ocean. Wearing headsets for narration, visitors are transported on a moving sidewalk passing by a variety of exhibits which include leopard sharks and other Pacific Coast fish. Underwater World offers an amusement-type ride and theme of the underwater world.
A cable car ride uphill from Underwater World leads to the heart of shopping in San Francisco, Union Square. The Westin St. Francis hotel is a backdrop for musicians playing in the Square. Street people mime or play a variety of instruments, a stark contrast to the affluent shopper browsing the fine department stores.
The Westin St. Francis has renovated its décor while maintaining a 1900 look of elegance throughout its 1200 rooms. Across the street from the St. Francis is The Inn at Union Square, a “boutique” hotel offering charming, rooms, including some with fireplaces. The Inn has a non-smoking, and non-tipping policy. Breakfast is included in the morning, tea or wine is served in the afternoon.
If San Francisco is in your travel plans, take the time to visit the Monterey Aquarium. It’s well worth the trip. If you are traveling the kids, don’t miss Underwater World.
White Barn Inn, Kennebunkport Maine
When was the last time the innkeeper served you a cup of morning coffee and later that same evening escorted you to the dining room table? Laurie Cameron, innkeeper, of Relais Chateaux’s White Barn Inn, located in Kennebunkport, Maine, leads the way, followed by her competent staff.
The White Barn Inn is rated as one of the finest restaurants in Maine; its awards and accolades are numerous. Chef Gethin Duvalle Thomas uses the freshest, seasonal seafood and vegetables to prepare the creative menu. The 120-seat dining room is located in the original barn, from which the Inn derived its name.
A wide barn door swings open to the foyer of a cozy piano bar. A twenty-foot picture window spotlights a garden of seasonal flowers. A piano, played unobtrusively, sets the stage for every celebrated occasion, and enhances the romantic setting of the dining room. Beautiful sterling, china, and crystal contrasts with the rustic antique collection of barn implements viewed on the second floor loft of the barn. The décor shows the special touch of innkeeper Laurie.
She quietly coaches her staff in her evening role as maitre’d. Seating times are choreographed and spaced for optimum service. Guests are shown to tables, seated, and dinner napkins are placed on their laps. Sterling is changed after each course, which is presented by two servers who simultaneously remove silver platter covers. An appetizer served, “with compliments from the chef” arrives before the meal order is taken. It might be an expresso-cup size serving of home made soup.
Dining at the White Barn Inn is an evening event. The price fixed menu includes four courses, each selection more tempting that the next.
Guestrooms at the Inn are charming with room amenities also showing the personal touch of Laurie. Glass enclosed showers spray with force, a Jacuzzi tub is nearby. Thick terry robes hang on the bathroom door.
Our room had a sitting area with a desk, a television housed in an armoire, and a wood burning fireplace. There was a tall four-postered bed.
Housekeeping service discreetly attends to turndown service, which is seemingly timed to your dinner reservation. There is more than a chocolate on your pillow; there is another bedtime treat. It might be a white chocolate coconut-covered strawberry or a chocolate-covered brownie.
When George Bush became President of the United States, Kennebunkport became a town snarling with summertime traffic jams. There are still few traffic lights on downtown main street, which is lined with gift, antique shops, and, a few T-shirt shops. Restaurants serve fresh lobster, and fried clams are abundant. The Arundel Wharf restaurant is a scenic spot where you can lunch on a harbor deck while watching sailboats cruise toward the ocean.
During the summer months, whale watching and fishing trips are featured. Other attractions include a maritime and trolley museum. Hiking is popular in the Rachel Carson Wildlife Refuge. Bicycling touring from one beach to the next makes for an interesting and scenic ride. We rode south along the coastline to Lord’s point then north to Cape Porpoise. The route passed Walker Point, the Bush compound.
Kennebunkport is located an hour and a half drive north of Boston. It is one of many beach towns offering a weekend get-away or summer vacation destinations. The White Barn Inn is a good reason to head for Kennebunkport, it is definitely a romantic get-away.
Mary L. Peachin is a Tucson-based adventure travel writer and photographer. Read about her adventures at test.peachin.com or e-mail her at mary@peachin.com