Text and photos by Mary L. Peachin and courtesy of Patagonia River Ranch
Vol. 20, No.7
Becoming a member of Patagonia River Ranch’s exclusive fly fisher’s “Blue Label” Club is open only to those who release a twenty five inch rainbow or German brown trout. Argentina’s premiere estancia, located in Northern Patagonia along the banks of the Chimehuin River floats anglers on six blue ribbon swift flowing rivers. Joining the Club is not unlike being a member of the “tyee” club, anglers who have caught a thirty pound salmon, or a Caribbean salt water slam enjoyed by releasing a permit, bonefish, and tarpon in a single day.
But fishing at exclusive Patagonia River Ranch (PRR), while unparalleled in excellence, is not just a fly fishing hangout “for the boys.” This is a luxurious “adult camp” estancia offers as many activities as guests can pack into a twelve hour day.
Located on a quiet dirt road, Patagonia River Ranch is forty five minutes or thirty six miles north of the village of San Martín de los Andes. Its gate, signed with the PRR brand, welcomes guests to a week of play combined with gourmet dining, a full bar and fine wines, everything is all-inclusive including top of the line fishing gear. It’s all about playing, eating, and sleeping while being emerged in the Argentine culture. The estancia has always been exclusively staffed by Argentines.
The one exception is owner Ken Gangwer. A Jackson Hole Wyoming realtor and investor his love for fly fishing took him to Patagonia more than thirty years ago. Returning year and year, in 1997, when told about the existing property, he quickly flew to Patagonia and bought the 650 acre estancia. That was just a beginning.
Temporarily side-stepping his love for fishing, he built an antique-filled ranch that looked like the estancia of any well-heeled Argentine. To protect land erosion from destroying fishing habitat, he planted twenty four thousand cypress trees. He hired from the “get-go” only Argentines to support their economic security. Other than a gate brand, the privacy of his clients was protected. They were attracted, not solely for the fishing, but enjoying the finest in food, wine, and alcohol and cuisine. Any food that could be grown in the garden was served or the finest brought in from Buenos Aires.
If Patagonia River Ranch is a well kept secret, it’s because Wyoming realtor Ken Gangwer doesn’t advertise. His clientele is all word of mouth and repeat business. Local fishing guides cannot bring their clients to the Ranch to fish the six (Chimehuin, Caleufú, Aluminé, Malleo, Collón Curá and the Quilquihue area’s rivers. PRR, open between November and March, is totally exclusive for fourteen guests, there is no turnover during the week.
Those wishing to fish may head out with their guide at anywhere from five to eight in the morning. Hostesses Salome Audisio and Julia Volpe, who serve every guest whim, who are almost exclusively from the United States, divide their efforts taking one or both spouses shopping in the charming village of San Martín de los Andes, zip lining, kayaking, taking a Lago Lacar day long boat cruise, horseback riding, hiking, touring the Ranch’s organic garden, or even taking a cooking class. A siesta can also be an option.
The fenced biodynamic organic garden covers a large area and includes several greenhouses as well as an orchard. When fresh produce, like tomatoes, are out of season, the best heirlooms are shipping from Buenos Aires.
Patagonia River Ranch, located in the Andes steppe of Neuquén Province, is landscaped by multicolored jarilla, neneo and coironales bushes along with introduced poplar and pine trees. River banks are lined with Creole or red willow roots stain. Knowing that a river can change its course by half a mile, over a decade, Ken planted 42,000 trees, all indigenous to Argentina, to protect the soil nutrients of his river front property.
The ranch house atmosphere is cozy with a living room and bar warmed by a large fireplace, a dining room with two large circular tables that is adjacent to an extensive wine cellar and the kitchen. Gaucho antiques highlight the elegant accommodations and public space. There are several cabins for those wishing more privacy.
Ken’s rose garden includes forty species grown in South America. The estancia’s signature Papa Meilland® is a dark velvety and fragrant red hybrid tea rose. Buenos Aires growers did not expect it to grow in Patagonia because of the temperature variation, but it has flourished. Women guests are welcomed to PRR with a rose.
Each day we were driven, with raft in tow, to a river beginning with the Quilquihue, a river, known for its dry fly fishing, which merges into the Chimehuin River. Floating in a NRS six foot raft with two chairs and a standing bar and rowed by guide Mario Leyva, we used Orvis or Sage 9 foot rods with 5-6x tippet and Sage reels with dry flies: Adam parachutes, Fat Albert, caddis, grasshopper, mayfly imitations and beetle flies. We released rainbow and Brown trout ranging between twelve and twenty three inches.
Shore lunches, served on a plaid table cloth tables surrounded by armed chairs with a floral centerpiece of fresh roses and other spring flowers included a variety of food and wine or beer. One day, Chef Claudio Abraham, who has been at PRR since it opened fifteen years ago, prepared a mini-asado of barbecued chicken wrapped in prosciutto, entrañas or skirt steak, and grilled pork, mixed green salad, grilled vegetables, peppers, eggplant, potatoes, and a mouthwatering crepe filled with dulce de leche topped with whipped cream and strawberries and a grilled peach. PRR was branded into the powdered sugar. Mendoza Zuccar vineyard’s red Tempranillo was served. When our guides finished zipping yerba mate from their gourds, it was fishing time.
Dinner followed cocktail hour which lasted until everyone returned from their day’s outing to the Ranch house. Typically served around nine, the entree might include a rib eye steak or marinated pork roast with grilled onions, mashed potatoes, freshly harvested lettuce, a passion fruit tart. Sommelier Patricia Dalton introduced the nightly wine, always Argentine and frequently a Mendoza Malbec red.
Another day we put in at the lower section of the Chimehuin whose headwaters drain from Huechulafquen Lake in Lanin National Park then flow into Rio Collón Curá River. Snow melt from the Andes creates clear water which makes the twenty five mile Chimehuin River a habitat for large rainbows and browns. The hearty fish love its willow banks, big boulders, deep pools and frequent riffles.
A bonus was the excellent bird watching highlighted by the Northern Carcara, black cormorant, lapwings, a variety of duck and geese, purple eagles, ibis, and more. Floating the Aluminé River along the stately cliffs of Piedra del Pilolil, a Mapuche translation for blue rock, we were unsuccessful in sighting condors. A two hour drive south of Junín de los Andes village, the Aluminé becomes a tributary of the Collón Curá River.
El Manzano, in the upper part of Chimehuen, also offers large sizes and quantities of trout. Three anglers drifted forty two miles for twelve hours on the Caleufú River. Departing before daylight, they didn’t return to the ranch until 11 pm. They released an average of sixty fish most of them ranging twenty or more inches. Another option was an overnight “luxury” camping trip on the lower Collón Curá River. Standup tents offered cots, mattresses and sleeping bags with a liner. Each tent had a toilet and hot shower. The large dining tent was formally set, a full bar stocked, an added bonus was the cooking expertise of Chef Claudio.
The week concluded with an asado in the patio. Chef Claudio spent the day grilling a side of beef and lamb over wood burning coals. The dinner also included chorizo sausage, empanadas, salad, grilled vegetables, and another scrumptious dulce de leche crème brulee dessert. The announcement of a presentation into Blue Label membership was a surprise to Tom Bosma. He knew he had released a large trout on the Collon Cura River while using a beetle fly, but he never considered it a contender.
All this speaks to the Ranch’s solid booking year after year. Word of mouth markets well. Whether two or five inches short of that magical twenty five inch qualification, another visit provides the challenge for another opportunity, or maybe an exciting week at a luxurious “adult camp.”
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