Mary Peachin

Story and Photography by Mary Peachin

Situated on the Mediterranean coastline of northeast Spain, Barcelona—the capital city of Catalonia, an “autonomous community” of the country—has long been a popular destination for both cruise ships and independent travelers who appreciate its scenic location, wonderful tapas and fresh seafood.

Perhaps its most famous attraction is Basílica i Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família, commonly called Sagrada Família, or Holy Family. Designed by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí (1852–1926), the Roman Catholic church has yet to be completed. Visitors stand in line for hours to view this UNESCO World Heritage Site, which in 2010 Pope Benedict XVI consecrated and proclaimed a minor basilica.

Barcelona’s other top tourist attraction is its tin-roofed public market, Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria— often simply referred to as La Boqueria—whose modest entrance faces La Rambla, a tree-lined pedestrian mall. The market dates to 1217, when meat products were sold from tables located near the old city gate. After 1470, it was called Mercat Bornet and was the site of a pig market until, in 1794, it became known as Mercat de la Palla (straw).

Last spring we chose to venture off the tourist path, with the tour company Culinary Backstreets. Our tour meandered as we nibbled our way along the streets of Gràcia, a neighboring district of Barcelona.

Gràcia was founded as a town in 1626 when Carmelite novitiates established a convent there—Nostra Senyora de Gràcia, or Our Lady of Grace—and was an independent municipality until it was annexed by Barcelona in 1897 owing to Gràcia’s northward expansion and population growth to more than 150,000 inhabitants. Gràcia comprises a number of neighborhoods: Vila de Gràcia, Vallcarca i els Penitents, El Coll, La Salut, and Camp d’en Grassot i Gràcia Nova.

Six of us met Paula Mourenza, our guide, at a local bank for our five-hour walking tour along narrow, cobblestone streets lined with interesting architecture and colorfully painted buildings. Following a path used several centuries ago as a pilgrimage route, we passed a colorful home known as the Calmata House. The builder was a follower of Gaudí’s. We did not see either Gaudí- designed Parc Güell located on El Carmel Mountain or the Moorish-inspired UNESCO World Heritage Site Casa Vicens—one of Gaudí’s first important works—a residence built for industrialist Manuel Vicens.

Our first stop was at Churreria. Open 24 hours, the narrow shop serves churros—fried dough dipped in sugar—using a recipe dating to the Middle Ages. Dough made of hard wheat flour is adjusted to account for ambient temperature and humidity. A close eye is kept on the temperature while the dough is fried in a combination of peanut, sunfl ower, and olive oils, all of which have a high smoke point. It is alleged that churro dough was found in the tomb of Ramses II. Egyptian iron miners have been credited with fi rst bringing churros to Spain.

A second stop, at La Colmena bakery—one of the oldest in Barcelona, dating to 1849 and currently run by the grandson and great-grandson of the last owners—got us off to a very sweet start.

By late morning we arrived at La Pubilla, built in 1912 as a traditional restaurant. Today it is considered a bistro and features a specialty of “breakfast with pork” served with beer or Cava (Spanish sparkling wine), and eggs with chorizo, paprika, rosemary, and honey.

Established in 1885, Graner Sala, one of the oldest shops in Barcelona, sells many varieties of nuts and vegetables. Along the way to Mercat de L’Abaceria we passed the central village square, Plaza de la Vila de Gràcia, noted for its beautiful clock tower. At Crème de Patisserie, an unrestored 19th-century bakery, we tasted pure dark chocolate–covered almonds and hazelnuts. Catalonia was the entryway for chocolate arriving from Europe.

Barcelona markets are replete with hanging Iberian hams, easily recognized by their black hoof, distinctive leg shape, and dark meat—a product of the black pig’s acorn diet. The hams of this ancient breed require from 12 to as many as 48 months to cure, and there are several grades of quality.

Mercat de L’Abaceria offered us the opportunity for a tasting frenzy. There were many kinds of both cow and goat cheeses and a variety of sausages. Olives were green and black: sweet, spicy, and briny. We learned about the process of making salt cod. Prior to refrigeration, the process was a necessity.

We were stuffed by the time we arrived at Cal Boter restaurant for lunch. Served family style, the meal included artichokes, marinated onions, and escargots. Snail tails are bitter, so we ate only the heads, after dipping them in butter. The main course was a salt cod called Bacallà gratinat amb muselina d’allioli. It was rich with mayonnaise and tomato sauce.

Afterward, thinking we were taking a much appreciated shortcut through an underground garage, we found that Paula was actually sharing a part of history. During the Spanish Civil War, Mussolini bombed Barcelona weekly. We were viewing an air raid shelter preserved in the garage.

Before saying goodbye, we stopped at La Vermuteria del Tano for a vermouth tasting followed by a visit to La Bodego lo Pinyol, a tapas bar serving semi-seco (medium dry) Cava.

It was a full day—one filled with history, many new tastes, and tired feet.

Mary L. Peachin is a local freelance writer. Comments for publication should be addressed to letters@desertleaf.com.