Text and photos by Mary L. Peachin
July/August, 2021 Vol. 24, No. 10, 11
In late spring, the southern fork of the Snake River meanders nine miles through Idaho and Wyoming. The River winds through valleys edged with birch and willows as it passes basalt cliffs dating centuries back to its volcanic beginnings millions of years ago. The weather is still too cold for insects to hatch, the trout are just emerging from hunkering on the river’s bottom. The steep cliffs of the snowcapped Tetons are the primary attraction drawing skiers to the area.
Fly fishers come to challenge the Snake. Those who choose late May or “mud season” face the whim of the weather.
During our three-day visit, we experienced sun-kissed cheeks and shivering snow. While our early morning departure was in the 30s, by midafternoon we had shed two layers of clothes basking in the high 70s. Drift floating with guide Buck Leonard and supervised by his devoted puppy Emmett, he rowed us below reservoir along the Palisades Range.
Buck was not your average guide. With more than 20 years of experience on the Snake, he knew every riffle in the river, its ledges, boulders, foam drifts, banks, and eddies.
He continually changed flies to determine which one would attract the fish. Not just typical fly shop flies, but nameless, anonymous ones, those that appealed to the rivers “grand slam” release of rainbow, brown, cutthroat, and even whitefish.
Buck’s expertise goes beyond his fishing knowledge. He knows the archeology of the region plus its wildlife (moose, deer, bear), the trees flora and fauna, a “yes, he was a rowing cyclopedia.”
The Lodge at Palisades offers 12 lodgepole cabins at river’s edge, a main Lodge with separate dining and breakfast rooms, a bar, and living room.
There are two gourmet chefs who gussy up the four course dinners. They also serve some fancy box lunches to enjoy on the river. The bar is fully stocked with premium brands inclusive with your stay. There is even a humidor filled with Cuban cigars for outside enjoyment.
Exciting fishing days were long and productive, nights tucked under the comforter seemed oh so short. We enjoyed it all, the hospitable staff, beautiful scene, exciting wildlife, and the pleasure of releasing hard fighting fish.