Vol. 26, No. 11, 12
Text and photos by Mary L. Peachin
September/October 2023
The shiny red Cessna 180 float plane flew us 90 minutes west from Whitehorse’s Schwatka Lake to Yukon’s Tincup Lodge. Formerly called a Territory, these historic vast and scenic mountain ranges include numerous winding rivers. The Canadian province was stampeded by gold seekers during the last and greatest gold rush in the late 1800s. Miners staking claims endured climbing the grueling Chilkoot Pass followed by motoring up the Yukon River.
We passed Lake Lebarge, the location of famed Robert Service’s poem about the Creation of Sam McGee.
Formerly called a Territory, Yukon’s historic vast and scenic mountain ranges include numerous winding rivers. Dall sheep roamed mountain tops of the high Arctic tundra. Ancient rounded peaks are covered by granite outcroppings. A bull moose lounged in a small valley lake.
We had come to Tincup Lodge to fish for lake trout and grayling in the wilderness of Tincup Lake. The ten-mile shoreline, not far from Kluane National Park, is edged by birch, red cone pine, willow, and alder. Colorful blue, pink, and yellow primrose and fireweed were in full bloom. This unspoiled natural landscape, surrounded by the Ruby Range mountains, offered breathtaking views during 14 hours of summer daylight.
The Lodge, which can be reached only by floatplane or helicopter was an arduous building task for Meinrad and Katrin Humm. Her homestyle cooking includes a tasty European cuisine.
Glistening hemlock wood covers floors, four waterfront guest cabins are built of cedar. Such elegance is atypical of most fishing lodges. Other amenities included kayaks and paddle boards resting on the dock, a sauna reached by a wooden bridge over a grayling-filled creek, and animal-trail hiking requiring the protection of a can of bear spray. Surrounding wildlife include grizzly bear, moose, lynx, and Dall ship.
Guide Patrick Bielle, formerly a French restauranteur, was an expert on selecting the appropriate lure for casting or trolling. He knew every Bay, stream confluence, depth. His expertise was amazing. We shared the Lake with loon, eagles, Northern hawk, merganzers followed by newborn hatchlings, swan, and other ducks.
Fishing is primarily for lake trout, grayling, pike, and deepwater burbot, a Yukon version of ling cod. Our journey was a great escape, with plenty of fish including the adventure of getting there.