By Mary L. Peachin with photos by Cameron Azad
June, 2011 Vol. 15, No. 8
“I only waited twenty seven years for this.” Veteran scuba diver Jan Hanson was speaking of an extraordinary experience. She and Bill Kimball, during their first dive on a trip to the Philippine islands of Anilao and Puerta Galera (Sabang) observed a deadly blue ring octopus. They saw the cotton ball-sized critter on the reef of Anilao’s Kirby Island. The ocean’s most dangerous critter, usually holed deep into the wall, is rarely seen by divers. The small octopus only flashes its electric-blue spots defensively. Those of us who have seen them have witnessed those iridescent blue circles, which most likely means that they find the flash of a camera to be threatening.
Flying to the Philippines feels like traveling to the end of the world. After more than a dozen hours in the air, various connections, and a hefty jet lag hangover, you might question your sanity. But here, the underwater world is home to some of the most unique and fascinating critters in the world.
Twelve of the Chicken Divers celebrated their 10th anniversary of diving by gathering in March 2010 at Eagle Point Resort. Located in the province of Batangas, the 25-mile coastline is known as Anilao. The setting of the resort is stunning. Edging Batangas Bay, it is literally at water’s edge.
Each morning we headed to one of two bancas, the Philippine version of a Mexican panga. We boarded by using a foot wide planked “gangplank”. Our gear was placed in the middle and we sat on the gunwales. Bamboo outriggers, extending far enough from the banca for us to make a back roll, stabilized the boat.
While the blue ring was sighted on Kirby reef near Sombrero Island, Anilao is best known for its muck diving in Secret Bay.
Along a rubbled ocean bottom, we watched a rare spiny devilfish bury itself in the sand. But, there was so much more. Here, and later at Puerto Galera, some of our sightings included:
* * *
Shrimp: popcorn, mushroom, egg shell, skeleton, Harlequin, Coleman, mantis, tiger/slasher, and imperial.
Eel: ribbon (Yellow, Black, Blue), garden, convict snake, Reptilian, white eye, fimbriated, barred, and the more common moray.
Crab: porcelain, hermit, soft coral, peppermint, hairy orangutan,
Pipefish: mushroom, guilded, Harlequin ghost, halameda, and filamented
Octopus: blue ring, wonderpus, mimic, bobtail squid, cuttlefish
Opisthobranchs (or nudibranchs): multiple Chromodoris, Nembrotha, Hypselodoris, Reticulidia, Phylidia, Glossodoris, Berthela, Flabelina.
Other varieties included: thorny and pygmy seahorses, slipper lobster, banded sea krait, giant clams, Hawksbill turtle, leaf fish, common, gurnard and dwarf lionfish, Yellow-lipped jawfish, flying gurnard, and sea moth. There were painted, striated, and warty frogfish. Stargazers peered from the sand as fingered dragonet made their way.
* * *
And this list, compiled by Bill Kimball, Jan Hanson, plus additions from other Chicken Divers, is just the critters we could remember.
After five days in Anilao led by divemaster Joey Aristorenas, we took a ferry to Sabang. Located in Puerto Galera, the small village is home to Atlantis, a resort designated to divers.
Each day the group divided into two groups to board small speed boats for three dives plus a night dive. Once again, in the harbor location of Sabang wreck, some of the Chickens saw another blue ring on a night dive. The following night most of the divers staying at Atlantis were diving the wreck. This time there was no sighting.
While most Anilao/Puerta Galera diving features a rubbly underwater landscape, the area does have some magnificent coral reefs, both hard and soft. One of the most beautiful reefs was Beatrice Rock in Anilao.
Atlantis Resort is an open air ocean front property dedicated to divers. A small path separates the dive operator and boats from the resort. The highlight of the day was the announcement, after two morning dives, that it was “Mongolian” time. A luncheon buffet of vegetables, pork, chicken, and raw fish of your selection was then stir-fried with soy or oyster sauce, chili oil, garlic, and ginger.
Ten years ago, the Chicken Divers were founded after a group of like-minded divers who put a rubber chicken in a bait ball for a shark feed in Papua New Guinea. Today, the international group has expanded to more than thirty experienced divers. As part of the 10th anniversary Mardi Gras celebration, with the help of Atlantis Resort, who made “Free Hug” signs, the group spent several hours standing on the path giving free hugs to pedestrians. It was a fabulous experience. Some doubted the word “Free”, others made a sharp detour, and one man expressed his need for a hug. The Resort staff eagerly participated by made the signs. The event was a huge success, enjoy by the recipients as well as the huggers.
In 2011, the Chicken Divers experienced some hard core diving with tiger sharks to the muck critters of the Philippines. One thing for sure, they always find the best diving and every moment, with the exception of long flights and travel, is fun-filled.