South Africa’s Garden Route to Hog Hollow
Story and Photography by Mary L. Peachin
Lions, leopards, elephants, rhinos and Cape buff alo. These African animals (known as the “Big Five” due to their visual majesty) sometimes induce visitors to South Africa to include a safari in their itinerary. But, the country offers so much more, especially if you have the interest and are able to devote time to exploring independently.
Following the Garden Route, my husband, David, and I rented a car and ventured northwest six hours by car (an alternative is an hour’s domestic flight to the city of George) from Cape Town.
Heading northward to Hog Hollow Country Lodge, modern highway N2 follows the Indian Ocean coastline, meandering among secluded bays before heading inland to Plettenberg Bay as the highway becomes wedged between ancient forests surrounded by fynbos (natural fl oral shrub gardens). N2 originates in the Southern Cape city of Heidelberg and continues to Storms River Village along the Eastern Cape border.
The private deck of our Hog Hollow Country Lodge cabin was cantilevered over Matjies River Gorge, an immense wilderness that made us feel
almost like we were clinging to the rim of the Grand Canyon. Covered by a forest-like growth of Australian wattle, the gorge was spectacular.
This fast-growing, non-native species brought to South Africa 25 years ago to produce leather tannin forced out some native vegetation. Farmers who were encouraged to plant wattle didn’t realize they were about to ravage a rare, indigenous fynbos forest unique in the Tsitsikamma area.
After six years of traveling through England and South East Asia, Andy Fermor decided to return to post-apartheid South Africa. While he was building Hog Hollow, Debbie Reyneke was working as an executive in the hospitality industry.
An avid walker, Rayneke invited a friend to hike for fi ve days on the Otter Trail along the Tsitsikamma coast. Following their trek, her friend suggested they dine at a new lodge, a place called Hog Hollow. It was a dinner that would lead to a long-lasting relationship, between Andy and Debbie, each using their expertise to add value to the lodge.
16 guest cabins
Each of the homey lodge’s 16 cabins has a private deck overlooking the gorge. Three public lounge areas include a swimming pool, a reading room and the Ficus deck, named for a fruit tree that attracts many species of birds.
The main house features a large, dining room table, where guests plan their daily activities over breakfast or unwind at day’s end around a candlelight dinner served family-style.
But visiting Hog Hollow is more than staying at a remote lodge. The natural quality of its nearby attractions is what makes the journey fascinating.
Tenikwa Wildlife Awareness Centre offers a unique viewing experience of wild cats in captivity. Guides provide up-close encounters with cheetahs, a leopard and other indigenous species, servals and caracal among them.
Meerkats dig in and out of holes in their open-air closure near the visitors center, as blue cranes and Maribou storks stand nearly motionless near the side of a pond.
Not far from the adjacent village of Kurland, Monkeyland Primate Sanctuary offers plunging views of wildlife, from a suspended 300-foot-high canopy walk. The sanctuary is home to more than 450 species of primates ranging from Asian gibbons to Madagascar lemurs.
Many are visible beneath the canopy and along adjacent trails. Knowledgeable rangers describe the habits of mammals roaming free in the forest.
Adjacent to Monkeyland is Birds of Eden Sanctuary. Opened in 2005, its canopy-walk weaves throughout a fiveacre aviary. Some 220 birds there range from African indigenous to the exotic.
The collection includes previously caged pets that go through a process of rehabilitation, which includes socializing with other birds as well as the strengthening of flight muscles.
Prior to their arrival at the sanctuary, some of the cranes, flamingos and ducks have been subjected to cruel pinioning, the removal of a portion of a wing to prevent flight.
Some of the species found in Birds of Eden are ground-living, or terrestrial . Among them are colorful golden pheasants; shy, minuscule, white starred robins; terrestrial bulbuls, live
thrush, bearded barbets and the colorful tauraco species.
Some of the sun lovers found higher in the canopy include the channelbilled toucan, black-necked and green aracaris (toucanettes), as well as whitetailed and Inca jays.
Along the forest deck area, blue, green wing and gold macaws mingle with 12 species of vocal conures, ringnecks, parakeets and lorikeets.
In the grasslands, marsh and woodlands are scarlet ibis, flamingoes, spoonbills, blue and crowned cranes, egrets and moorhens. Smaller parrot species include budgies, lovebirds and
cockatiels. Birds of Eden hosts 29 species of ducks including the rarely sighted hornbill.
If you prefer to personally interact with an elephant, experience that opportunity at The Elephant Sanctuary, in The Crags, Plettenberg Bay. Visitors can walk down a path while holding an elephant’s trunk, then feed the elephant and even take a ride.
Near Plettenberg Bay, right and humpback whales, bottlenose and common dolphins, and killer whales frolic close to shore. Not as well known as Gansbaii (Afrikaans for “bay of Geese”), the Plettenberg is an alternate destination for scuba divers looking for a caged encounter with a great white shark.
If you choose to take a relaxing, less-active break, the Bramon Wine Farm near Plettenberg Bay, has brought wine making to the region. Enjoy some tasty cheese, a unique sparkling Sauvignon Blanc, or a variety of tapas as you enjoy a view of the Tsitsikamma Mountains.
The Garden Route is not on many visitors’ itineraries. It’s off the tourist path and offers many unusual and unheralded attractions—and that is what makes it well worth the experience.
DL
Mary L. Peachin is a local freelance writer.
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