Text and photos by Mary L. Peachin
June, 2010 Vol. 14, No. 9
Brussels
Spring ripened strawberries sweeten the air. Window shoppers strolling through 1847-built Galeries St. Hubert savor chocolate-dipped berries. Others lick ice cream cones, thick whipped cream-covered waffles, candy or cookies from one of many Belgium’s famous chocolate or sweet shops. Yes, Belgians do have a sweet tooth.
Galeries St. Hubert’s, a neoclassical shopping mall, built by King Léopold I, high vaulted glass ceiling illuminates halls edged by marble columns, statutes, and ornate ironwork. The Mall, adjacent to Galerie du Roi, Galerie de la Reine, and Galerie des Princes, beckons fashion, lace, and book store shoppers.
Grand Place, located in the center of old town, dates back to the 12th century. During even years, in August, the plaza is carpeted with flowers. Formerly a marshland, Grand Place is now surrounded by baroque-style guildhalls, outdoor cafes, and cellar restaurants.
North of Gare Centrale train station, and dating back to 1226, Cathédral St. Michael and St. Gudule, are a twin towered blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture. The mixture is a result of its building requiring three centuries to build.
Brussels offers many museums, some as specific as the Musical Instruments Museum. While it is impossible to visit all of them, most visitors don’t miss the opportunity of having their photo taken in front of the iconic Manneken Pis, a small boy peeing into a pool. His wardrobe includes more than seven hundred costumes. To be politically correct, Jeanneke Pis squats in a nearby alley, while a mongrel dog lifts his leg in St. Géary.
Cobblestone streets are lined with restaurants serving all types of ethnic food. Most popular are kettles of moules (mussels) and frites (French fries) and, during spring time, large white asparagus.
Brussels, Belgium’s capital, a 10th-century fortress town founded by a descendant of Charlemagne, has one million inhabitants. A Catholic country, its total population is ten million. The European Union and North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO) have made Brussels an important center for international politics. Guide Louis Berjowicz boasts, “I love my city, it is a cocktail of everything.”
Brugge
Brugge is recognized as one of Western Europe’s most popular destinations. Maintaining a medieval presence, the city offers colorful market squares, romantic canals, and brilliant Flemish facades. The city bustles with tourists, lace and kitschy shopping, and a unique charm.
Cobblestone streets, surrounded by a moat, are built around Markt and Burg squares. In 1300, France annexed the city. When residents rebelled, the city was secured with four of its original 14th century gates preserved. Towering over Markt square, Belfort, a 13th century belfry is 272 foot or count 366 steps to its tower.
Beguines, dating back to the 12th century Crusades, were a Catholic order of unmarried or widowed women. Housed in small row houses, the women were protected by a gate. During spring, a carpet of daffodil are now sprinkled among the poplar trees of the popular begijnhof courtyard. In 1937, the beguinage became a Benedictine convent.
Brugge, capital of West Flanders, has always had a connection with the sea. Historically, it dates back to the 2nd and 3rd century then mysteriously disappears until the 8th century. Built as a settlement to protect against the Vikings, its canals flowed with sweet water. According to Tourism Flanders’ Anne de Meerleer, the canals should be considered rivers.
The Basilica of the Holy Blood, located in a corner of Burg Square, is comprised of an austere Romanesque lower chapel connected to a colorful Gothic upper chapel by a brick staircase behind a facade facing the square. Built in 1533, the Renaissance style stairs and facade were demolished during the French occupation. Rebuilt in the 19th century, gilded façade statues represent Archduchess Isabelle, Mary of Burgundy, and Derrick and Philip of Alsace. Medallions depict the Archdukes Albert and Maximilian of Austria, Margaret of York and Sybil of Anjou, wife of Derrick and mother of Philip of Alsace. Brought to the church during the 12th century Crusade, a relic of Christ’s blood maintains its significance. Venerated weekly, the relic is paraded through the streets on Ascension Day.
Belgium’s oldest City Hall or stadhuis, built between 1376 and 1420, has a turreted Gothic stone facade decorated with replica statutes. Inside, its rooms are covered with historic murals. Brugse Vrije Renaissance Hall highlights an intricate oak carved chimney, with marble and alabaster that depict Emperor Charles V.
Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk or the Church of Our Lady houses Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child. It is the famed artist’s only sculpture to leave Italy during his lifetime.
Brugge is also considered the capital of chocolate. Since 1977, Sukerbuyc (Sugerbelly) Chocolaterie owner Paule-Helene Depreter has proclaimed, “Here, I am chocolate.” Along with husband Ronald, they have used their chemistry background to develop their own recipe. In their factory, chocolate is hand coated and molded. Offering eight different chocolate flavors, Paule-Helene’s favorite is rum raisin.
Don’t miss a hot chocolate across Katelijnestraat Street at De Proeverie Tearoom. A cup of warm milk, a plate of warm melted chocolate, topped by a glob of fresh whipped cream along with several chocolate wafers, and a piece of candy (www.sukerbuyc.be) is served.
Antwerp
Arriving by train in Antwerp is entering the masterpiece of the city. 20th century Centraal Station is a magnificent glass edifice eclectically designed by Louis Delacenserie.
The city is noted for courtier fashion design, diamonds, and Rubens’ Flemish paintings. Antwerp’s strategic location served as a gateway to the New World and migration to America.
Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedrall or the Cathedral of Our Lady is the largest Gothic cathedral in Belgium. Spiring more than four hundred feet, it took more than a century and a half to build. Four of Rueben’s baroque paintings grace its walls.
Antwerp, one of world’s largest diamond trading centers or bourses, is a trading exchange for loose, cut and uncut diamonds. A majority of the world’s rough diamonds, and about half of the polished diamonds, are sold in Antwerp annually. The district is located in a secured area between Hoveniersstraat, Schupstraat, and Rijfstraat near the main train station. Until recent years, when dealers from India began to dominate the market, Spanish and Portuguese Sephardic Jews represented the majority of Antwerp’s 1,500 diamond dealers. Other than retail stores, only the Diamond Museum, displaying the history of the industry, is opened to the public.
While world renowned boutiques line a pedestrian only street, high end couture is found in ModeNatie, the home of the Flanders Fashion Institute and Royal Academy of Fine Art’s fashion department. Stadsfeestzaal, a 19th century neoclassical building, was devastated by a 2000 fire. In 2007, it reopened as a shopping mall after a complete restoration including the historic details in gold-leaf-finished stucco. Its spacious interior is highlighted by a glass dome.
Museum Plantin-Moretus was built at a time when Antwerp was known as the economic center of the Golden Age. The building housed one of the first industrial bookbinders and printing works. Its walls are adorned with Pieter Paul Ruben’s paintings. To see more paintings, visit the Rubenshuis. In 1610, Rubens and his wife Isabella bought a house on Wapper Street. Within five years, it was renovated as a studio. In 1946, it was converted to a museum.
Belgium’s three major cities: Brussels, Brugge, and Antwerp are easily accessed by train. While each city has a wealth of tourist sites and museums, each has its own distinct character. There’s more to Belgium than chocolate.
Brussels’ Dominican hotel, www.thedominican.be
Comme Chez Soi, www.commechezsoi.com
Brugge’s Best Western Hotel Navarra, www.hotelnavarra.com
Brasserie Raymond, www.brasserie-raymond.com
Antwerp’s Hotel’t Sandt, www.hotel-Sandt.be
Gin Fish, Chef Didier Garnish gave up coveted Michelin stars to serve his menu of the day at his kitchen counter. Reservations are essential.