Text and photos by Mary L. Peachin and courtesy of Sunwolf
November, 2015 Vol. 20, No. 2
Butt entrenchment! “Most definitely” according to guide and Sunwolf owner Jake Freese. It’s much preferable to a foot trapped in rocks or debris on the bottom of Cheakamus River’s flowing waters. We have come to North America’s bald eagle capital, a place not far from Whistler, British Columbia, where almost 4,000 eagles winter.
On a chilly January day, twelve of us have layered for our Cheakamus rafting float bound by long underwear, fleece, wool sweaters, and ski suits then covered with rubber rain gear. Wearing rubber gum boots, we waddle down the River’s bank to hop, well not exactly, into our inflated sixteen foot Sotar self-bailing raft.
There’s not much grace in flopping over the side to entrench ourselves on the boat’s pontoons so we can enjoy close up views of more than a hundred eagles during a one hour float. And while it is very cold, icicle-edged waterfalls only add to the beauty of Brackendale Eagles Provincial Park, a deep low-level valley carved in the Squamish River watershed.
The Squamish River Valley, located in the rugged terrain of the Coast Mountains has long been recognized as one of the most significant areas for wintering bald eagles. Back in 1994 bird count, the area broke the world record with a count of 3,769 eagles. Its riparian habitat provides roosting, perching and feeding areas along with prolific runs of chum salmon. Between November and February the habitat and food attract eagles from the Pacific Northwest.
Majestic bald eagles have a snowy-feathered (not bald) head and white tail. The United States proud symbol was nearly wiped out. For many decades, they were hunted for sport or for “protection” of fishing grounds. Pesticides like DDT wreaked havoc. Fish, which harbor the chemical, is the eagle’s primary diet. Weakened eggshells severely limited their ability to reproduce. Since the 1972 DDT restriction, eagle numbers have rebounded significantly. U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service have upgraded the birds from endangered to threatened.
Bald eagles are believed to mate for life, which can reach to twenty five years. They construct an enormous stick nest and both adults care for a pair of eggs yearly. Immature eagles are dark, and until they are about five years old, they lack the distinctive white markings. Powerful birds of prey, weighting up to fourteen pounds with a wingspan between ten and as wide as twenty feet, they use their talons to fish. They also scavenge carrion or steal the kills of other animals.
Starting in mid November and continuing through February eagles feed on spawning chum salmon in the glacial fed Squamish and Cheakamus rivers. Sunwolf provided us the opportunity to view the eagles from a remarkable vantage point – the Cheakamus river. Floating gently through the Tantalus Mountain Range with views of Mount Garibaldi, Jake shared both his eagle and valley expertise. An avid bird watcher, he pointed out the lone American dipper, a blue Heron, seagulls, and golden eye and merganser ducks.
Overwhelmed by the views of eagles in an incredible landscape, we were welcomed back to the cozy riverside lodge by Jake’s wife Jess, who served us a hearty bowl of pulled pork stew topped off by some yummy Fergie’s brownies as we warmed near the fireplace.
If you go:
Eagle Viewing Float Pre-Trip Information
Sunwolf Tours on the Cheakamus River passes through beautiful forest and open panoramic views of the Tantalus range and Mount Garibaldi. There are no real rapids, but the water can run fairly fast in some sections. Inflated self-bailing rafts means feet will get wet so rubber boots are provided. Commercial River Rafting Regulations require guests to wear life jackets. Though Brackendale has a very moderate climate, it can be rainy and cold. Bring plenty of warm clothes. Dress as if you were skiing on a cold, wet day. Cotton or jeans draw warmth away from your body. A shuttle is offered from Whistler departing daily from Gone Bakery.
Sunwolf…Cabins.rafting.eagle floats
Brackendale, B.C.
1-877-806-8046, 604-898-1537
www.sunwolf.net