written and photographed by Mary L. Peachin
Aug 2003, Vol. 7 No. 11
Remote and luscious, the 27-mile (238 sq. miles) island of St. Lucia is covered by thick rainforest rising to its dramatic volcano peaks. It’s the most northerly and second largest (next to Dominica) of the Lesser Antilles or Windward Islands, a southerly two-hour prop flight from Puerto Rico over the crystal clear waters of the Caribbean.
St. Lucia attracts the very active and others who just want to lounge on a powdery-white beach. Until recently, there was little tourist infrastructure, only a few hotels. Focused on a banana belt economy, the island had only its natural beauty to attract visitors. Since September 11th, cruise ships have added St. Lucia to their port destinations, and a few more hotels have opened along the northwest coastline.
None of them have the southwest proximity to the dive sites in the marine park or biking trails like the twenty-five year old secluded Anse Chastenet resort. Close means a boat trip of less than a few minutes to either dive or ride to the plantation to bike.
Anse Chastenet is the perfect place for the newlywed or new certified diver. Hand holding couples, who share the boat with guests ferried over from cruise ships or other hotels, are escorted on dives by safety conscious divemasters. The currents are gentle, and with the exception of the Lesleen M wreck, dives are drifts past magnificent forests of sponges and other soft coral. There is the occasional eagle ray, hawksbill turtle, or large Atlantic barracuda.
Two dive boats load divers from the beach for a 4 to 10 minute ride to one of the 12 sites dived each week. Anse Chastenet operates a SSI Platinum Pro/PADI dive operation. Each dive has the same profile: 50 feet for 50 minutes. Ascending after the required 3-minute safety stop to offload nitrogen, the wide boat outfitted with tank holders is waiting for surfacing divers with two dive ladders for easy boarding. Once a week a dive is made on the wreck Lesleen M followed by a picnic on the beach at Chef Harry’s Anse Jambette then a wall dive at Anse La Raye wall.
Biking Cannondale F800 bikes at Anse Mamin; an old colonial sugar plantation (built in the 1700’s) is a two-minute boat shuttle from Anse Chastenet. 10-12 miles of single track trails wind through the rainforest, which includes mango, coconut, banana, guava, cocoa, and citrus trees. The trails, which vary in difficulty, surround the ruins of the plantation. You can stop to admire wild orchids or ginger lilies, birdwatch, or take a swim in the volcanic, mineral-filled swimming hole. The setting is unique and few can meet the challenge of the mile-long climb on to 932 feet of Tinker’s (named for famed rider Tinker Juarez) Trail.
The island’s history is fascinating, yet little of it beyond the ruins of Anse Mamin sugar plantation still exists. Amerindians were the first known inhabitants of the island. The Ciboneys were hunters and gatherers who left little trace. The Arawaks, adept potters, weavers, builders and agriculturists followed them. The two Amerindian tribes enjoyed 800 years of peace before the Kalingo better remembered as the warring Caribs wiped them out.
Indo-Caribbean historian, Richard Cheddie, whose family were early indentured residents shares, “The first shipment of East Indians arrived on the Palmyra on May 6, 1859. In all 13 ships brought 4,354 Indians to the island. The last shipload arrived on Dec 10, 1893 on the Volga, which sadly sank off Vigie Point near Castries. It’s cargo was Indians bound for St. Lucia and Jamaica. All souls were saved. Most came from Uttar Pradesh and Bihar via Calcutta, but shiploads also came from Bengal and Madras. In the end, some 2,562 went back to India at the end of their indentureship contracts. Those that remained shared their future in the hands of others in the colony.”
The Spaniards, who were credited with the island’s name “Santa Alousie” in the 16th century, never bothered to colonize the island. The island had no known gold deposits. The first European to settle in the island was pirate “Peg Leg ” Francois Le Clerc. Establishing himself on the northern tip of Pigeon Island, he marauded passing Spanish ships.
The island was settled by accident. In 1605, an English ship was blown off course from Guyana, and landed on St. Lucia. Seventy-six settlers purchased land from the Caribs. The French followed in 1651 and its West India Company bought the island. Hostilities between the French and English continue for 150 years until the island was ceded to the British in 1814.
Until abolishment in 1838, a sugar-based economy was built using African slave labor. In 1891, 2500 East Indian immigrants immigrated and became indentured for five years. They worked on the sugar and coconut plantations in exchange for wage, housing, clothing, food, and medical care. At the end of their indenture they were given the choice of 10 acres or 10 pounds sterling, and eventually free passage home to India. Many of them stayed adding a broad diversity to the island, The production of sugar declined to the exportation of bananas, citrus, and nutmeg.
But more and more, St. Lucia’s economy is focused on tourism and attractions like its natural harbors, lush rainforest, and sandy white beaches makes it a romantic place for the young and active.
Some visitors might just want to relax on the beach but for the active, there are also rainforest hikes, a visit to one of the live volcanoes, and watersports that include sailing, kayaking, snorkeling, whale watching, and sportfishing.
Sidebar: Anse Chastenet
Getting to the resort is a 40-minute ride by sea or an hour-and a half drive along a narrow mountainous road. Cruise ship passengers or visitors staying at other properties who are welcome to participate (for a fee) in the activities and amenities of Anse Chastenet. One reason for the importance of Anse Chastenet’s “geographical desirability” is the island’s uninhabited eastern border along the rough waters of the Atlantic.
Anse Chastenet is also a few minutes by water taxi to the town of Soufriére, which is located north of the prominent peaks of the spectacular volcanic spikes of Gros Piton (2461 ft) and Petit Piton (2,619 ft).
Only forty-nine bungalows, camouflaged into the steep hillside plus twelve beachside cottages, are scattered among 600 acres. Appearing to cling (count a 100-step climb just to the reception/dining area from the beach) to the mountainside, the bungalows are designed with open-air wrap-around mahogany and cedar balconies welcoming the sounds of the jungle as well as birds and other small critters into your space.
The personal touch of owners Karolin and Nick Troubetzkoy can be seen everywhere; in the madras coverings that match the outfits of the outgoing hospitable staff or simple touches like murals painted along ceilings or floral arrangements of ginger lilies, anthuriums and bougainvillea on desks with drop dead views of the Caribbean or the classic Piton mountain peaks. The climb up the mountain is worth the effort. Where else can you find your own romantic privacy in the jungle?
A destination resort, meals are rotated between two restaurants. Twice a week, a Caribbean-type dinner buffet is served at the Trou Au Diable beach restaurant, other meals are served on the hillside in the Treehouse restaurant. There is live entertainment nightly. Both restaurants are painted with colorful murals, the wait staff s wear madras plaid (the same material found in the bungalows) a symbol of the material of the national costume of St. Lucia.
Spa Kai Belte (the Creole translation is House of Beauty) is located beachside, a hot stone massage is perfect remedy for sore calves (from walking up and down the stairs) or for relaxing after a dive.
If you go:
St. Lucia is referred to as the “Helen of the West Indies” because of its beauty. Located approximately 1300 miles southeast of Florida in the Windward Islands, St. Lucia is part of the Lesser Antilles, which belong to the West Indies. The 238-square mile island is 21 miles from Martinique and 24 miles north of St. Vincent. BWIA flies weekly from Miami and New York. American Eagle flies daily from Puerto Rico into George Charles Airport. US Airways flies directly from Philadelphia and Canada has direct flights from Toronto and Montreal. A valid passport or birth certificate is required for American and Commonwealth citizens. There is a $21 US exit fee. Cruise ships continually stop in both Port Castries and Soufriére harbors. The Eastern Caribbean dollar is valued at $2.70 to $1.00 US
For further information:
St. Lucia Tourism: www.stlucia.com or slutour@candw.lc
Near Soufriére, Anse Chastenet: go to www.ansechastanet.com or email ansechastanet@candw.lc. or call 758-459-7000
Bike St. Lucia: bikestlucia@candw.lc
Sandals St.Lucia Golf Resort y Spa in La Toc: 758-452-3081 sandals@candw.lc or Sandals Halcyon St. Lucia 758-453 0222 or sandalshc@candw.lc
Whale watching: Hackshaw’s Charter Boats Deep Sea Fishing -Mako Watersports 758-452-0412 or Captain Mike’s Sportfishing 758-450-1216