Text and photographs by Mary L. Peachin
April, 2013, Vol. 17, No. 8
Steenberg, the Mountain of Stone
Migrating from Germany to Constantia, South Africa in 1662, Catharina Ustings discovered a life of hardship. At the time, the area, which would later become South Africa’s noted winelands, was total wilderness. It was a country where women had no rights. Catharina, a twenty two year old widow, married Hans Ras, a soldier who had homesteaded on the Liesbeck River. The new bride was unaware that Hans lusted for women slaves.
Following their wedding celebration, he would be severely injured in a wagon collision. While Hans would live to father several children, he had the misfortune of being devoured by a lion. Catharina’s next husband would be murdered by a Hottentot, her fourth husband would be trampled by an elephant. Her fifth and final husband, Matthys Michelse, did not provide her financial security. Without rights, Catharina could not own land. She timidly approached Simon van der Stel to request a piece of his land to build a farm. He granted her wish, but rumor has it that it might have been because she was also his mistress.
Today, less than an hour from Cape Town, Steenberg’s, a name derived from Steen, the Afrikan word for stone and Berg which translates to mountain, manicured grounds and stately lodge, lie in the shadow of Table Mountain, are surrounded by vineyards and a championship golf course. Their spa is operated by Geckgo. Mountain bikes are available for those who would like to tour the vineyards on wheels.
Steenberg’s world-renowned course was designed by architect Peter Matkovich. It is consistently ranked as one of South Africa’s finest courses. Its 14th signature hole, a long par-three, has an extraordinary large, sloped 83 yard green surrounded by indigenous shrubs. While the club is opened to the public, golfers must have a registered handicap and foursomes are required to use a forecaddie.
Designated as a National Monument, over the centuries only Steenberg’s interiors have been renovated. Its three heritage suites, created from a nine room building, offer views of the vineyard, False Bay, and the golf course. The décor in these suites embrace Steenberg’s historical past. Maintaining its exterior as its original authenticity, historical period antiques were combined with contemporary technology. Cape Colonial suite includes French Huguenot antiques, Khoi Khoi suite is named for the Cape’s first nomadic herders inhabitants. The Dutch East India suite offers a more sophisticated look.
Catharina’s fine dining restaurant has been renovated into an avant-garde décor. Its entry includes a bubby bar, Gorgeous, named for the late Graham Beck. Executive Chef Garth Almazan’s offers contemporary South African cuisine. Relatively new to Steenberg’s culinary experience is Bistro Sixteen82. The cellar door bistro with a glass-walled view of the winery serves creative tapas.
Since Governor Simon van der Stel planted vines in 1685, the Western Cape has enjoyed a rich winemaking heritage with many vineyards and estates surrounding Constantia, Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, Paarl and Wellington, and Breede River Valley, encompassed by a landscape of rolling vineyards and Cape Dutch homesteads.
Steenberg is the oldest farm in Constantia Valley’s in this premier wine growing region. Wouldn’t Catharina be proud if she could see it now?
If you go: www.steenberghotel.com
South Western Cape’s Garden Route
Heading northward to Hog Hollow Country Lodge, highway N2 follows the Indian Ocean coastline between secluded bays before heading inland to ancient forests surrounded by natural floral gardens or fynbos. South Africa’s Western Cape’s Garden Route along N2, an excellent highway, originates in the Southern Cape city of Heidelberg and continues to Storms River Village along the Eastern Cape border. Our travel took us from Steenberg to Hog Hollow Country Lodge near Plettenberg Bay.
Overlooking the Matjies River Gorge, in 1993, the future Hog Hollow Country Lodge, was an alien wattle plantation covering the Crags, a little known wilderness. Twenty five years ago, area farmers had been encouraged to plant Australian wattle, a fast-growing, invasive species to produce commercially viable leather tannin. By doing so, they decimated a rare, indigenous forest and fynbos, one that was unique in the Tsitsikamma area.
Andy Fermor, after six years of traveling through England and South East Asia, decided to return to post apartheid South Africa. When he was building Hog Hollow overlooking the Gorge of wattle wasteland, Debbie Reyneke was working as an executive in the hospitality industry.
An avid walker, Debbie invited a friend to hike the five day Otter Trail along the Tsitsikamma coast. Following their successful trek, her friend suggested they dine at a new lodge built on the edge of a gorge, a place called Hog Hollow. It was a dinner that would lead to a long lasting relationship with Andy and Debbie each using their expertise to add value to the Lodge. Both born and bred in South Africa, they believed in employing and training local people to learn the tourism industry by working at Hog Hollow.
The sixteen suite lodge, with private decks overlooking the Gorge, is very homey. Its three lounge areas including the pool, a reading room, and Ficus, named for a fruit tree that attracts many of the prolific bird population. The Main House features a large dining room table where guests plan daily activities over breakfast or unwind at day’s end around a candle-lit table laden where dinner is served family style.
Not far from the village of Kurland, Monkeyland, the world’s only multi-species free-roaming primate sanctuary just one of a number of Garden Route eco-tourism attractions. Opened in 1998, primates, ranging from Asian gibbons to Madagascar lemurs, can be encountered along trails. Knowledgeable rangers describe the mammals roaming free in the forest.
Adjacent to Monkeyland is Birds of Eden sanctuary. It also has a canopy walk weaving through the five acre aviary opened in 2005. There are 220 birds ranging from the exotic to African. The collection includes previously caged pets that are released after a process of rehabilitation which includes socialization as well as restoring clipped flight muscles, and learning control of landings, changing direction, and more. Some cranes, flamingoes and ducks have been subjected to pinioning, the removal of a wing to prevent flight. These birds quickly learn to adapt in the aviary.
Some of the species found Birds of Eden are ground living or terrestrial, or arboreal and very shy. They include colorful golden pheasants, the shy minuscule white starred robin, terrestrial bulbuls, olive thrush, bearded barbets, and the shy colorful tauraco species. Some of the sun lovers found higher in the canopy include the channel billed toucan, the black necked and green aracaris (toucanettes), as well as white tailed and Inca jays. Along the forest deck area, blue, green wing, and gold macaws are found with twelve species of vocal conures, ringnecks, parakeets, and lorikeets. In grasslands, marsh and woodlands, scarlet ibis, flamingoes, spoonbills, blue and crowned cranes, egrets, and moorhens can be sighted. Smaller parrot species include budgies, lovebirds and cockatiels, species that prefer grassy areas. Birds of Eden hosts twenty nine duck species, and in sparser tree, there are hornbills and weaver species.
Tenikwa Wildlife Awareness Centre offers a unique wild cat experience. Guides provide a unique up close encounter with cheetahs. In addition to viewing a leopard, there is the opportunity to see other indigenous species including the African wild cat, servals and caracal. Meerkats dig in and out of holes in their closure near the visitor’s center, while blue cranes and Maribou stocks stand pond side. If you want to walk with a cheetah, this is the place. If you prefer to interact with an elephant, that opportunity can be experienced at the Crags Elephant Sanctuary. Visitors can hold the trunk, feed, and even ride an elephant.
Near Plettenberg Bay, right and humpback whales, bottlenose and common dolphins, and killer whales can be sighted close to shore. This is another place where divers can experience seeing the great white shark.
If you choose to take a break, the Bramon Wine Farm near Plettenberg Bay, has brought wine making to the region. Enjoy some tasty cheese, sparkling sauvignon blanc, and other tapas as you enjoy the view of the Tsiksikamma mountains.
The Garden Route is not on many visitors’ itineraries, but it is well worth the experience.
Part II of a series
If you go:
- South African Airways, www.saa.com
- South African Vacations, www.flysaavacations.com
- Hog Hollow Country Lodge www.hog-hollow.com
- Plettenberg Bay Tourism, www.plettenbergbay.co.za
- Knysna Tourism, www.visitknysna.co.za
- South African National Parks (SANParks) www.sanparks.org
- Crags Elephant Sanctuary, www.elephantsanctuary.co.za
- Birds of Eden, www.birdsofeden.co.za
- Tenikwa Wildlife Awareness Centre, www.tenikwa.co.za
- Bramon Wine Estate and Tasting, www.bramonwines.co.za