Text and photographs by Mary L. Peachin and Hila Shimon
February, 2011 Volume 15, No. 4
Shark fins carved the ocean’s surface surrounding Aqua Cat. As the anchor drops and engines idle, Caribbean reef sharks anticipating a yummy “chumsicle” of frozen fish parts and entrails, gather. Lowered from the surface, the frozen bait gradually disappears as it melts and is gulped by a dozen or more sharks. Photographing divers shoot from a sandy bottom near the base of a seamount.
There are other dives that also boost the adrenaline. At a site called The Washing Machine, a six mile per hour tide carries divers through a narrow cut where currents drop from a ledge before making a sharp leftward turn. Swirling waters, similar to those in a washing machine, roll divers head over heels before quickly gliding them over a patch reef.
Each week, the Aqua Cat departs Nassau to cruise among uninhabited cays in the remote Exumas Land and Sea Park. Twenty six offered dives vary between shallow ones that also offer plunging over deep reef walls, the shark feeding dive, high speed drift dives between cay cuts, and blue holes.
Northern Exumas, thirty five miles from Nassau, has no daily dive operations. For three decades, much of northern Exumas has been a National Underwater Park with no fishing, spear fishing or collecting allowed. Because of these laws, there are numerous sites housing undersea gardens of coral, sponges and fish.
In 1957, The Bahamas government created a 176 square mile archipelago, Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, which included three hundred and sixty five cays and islands. Originally called Yumey and Suma, the Lucayan, descendants of the Adreans, who migrated from Africa’s Mosquito Coast, were the first native inhabitants. During the 1500s, the Spanish arrived and created a salt mining industry. Pirates used the islands’ many cays and hidden coves to conduct raids and hide stolen goods. Permanent settlement by a group of Loyalists seeking refuge is thought to have occurred following the 1700 American Revolutionary War. For a brief period, prior to soil exhaustion and insect infestation, their cotton plantations flourished.
My previous trips to The Bahamas focused on fishing incredible bonefish flats or trolling offshore for schools of dorado. The great fishing action didn’t leave time for scuba diving. When a friend mentioned the quality of the Aqua Cat, I checked it out then I packed my bags.
There’s more than scuba diving. For non divers or those who are willing to give up a dive there is beachcombing, hiking the trails of pirates and bootleggers, snorkeling, kayaking, and fishing. Aqua Cat boasts, “No crowds, no set itineraries, nothing to do but sit back, relax and choose from an incredible variety of liveaboard activities.” A 28-foot launch is available for transport to isolated beaches
Non-divers will be happy with the variety of snorkeling offers. The reefs have gin clear waters hosting many varieties of fish. Snorkeling is available anytime the boat is anchored and the variety includes drifting, mangrove nurseries, feeding sting rays or swimming with lemon sharks in the Park. Anglers can troll from the Sea Dog using the Aqua Cat’s fishing gear.
Everyone took a diving break to visit Allan’s Cay. The small cay is home to the rare Bahamas rock iguanas. Once common on many Bahamian Islands, early settlers hunted them into extinction. Waiting patiently, we enticed the iguanas out of the mangroves by offering them grapes.
The speedy (14-knots) 102 foot catamaran, offers eleven spacious carpeted passenger cabins, each with an ensuite bathroom and shower, hair dryer, oversized berths, a mini-bar, and individually controlled air-conditioners.
In the dining and salon area there are two large tables with cane style cushioned chairs that seat two dozen. Soft drinks, an icemaker, and tap beer are dispensed in a beverage area dispenses. Meals are served buffet style with a formal setting for dinner. The food is plentiful, hearty, and good. There is a total of seven small three seat cane lounges with a television offering VCRs and DVDs, and a video editing area or photo light table, plus the ship’s boutique.
On the upper Alfresco deck there are three outdoor tables, a bar with tap beer, and a barbecue. The top sundeck has ten loungers. When the diving is done, a crew member will mix frozen rum drinks for those who want to sit on the deck to watch the setting sun.
The Aqua Cat hasn’t skimped on the dive deck either. It includes a large area photo station, both 110v & 220v battery charging outlets, two enclosed showers, a toilet and sink,
rinse hoses with hot and cold water next to each of two sturdy dive ladders, and two fresh water rinse tanks.
Unlike many liveaboard dive boats, the Aqua Cat is one of a few with so many luxury amenities. It is spacious, comfortable, and offers the privacy of a nice size bathroom and shower. The catamaran is so quiet, I found myself looking out of the full size curtained window to find if the boat was moving.
It’s nice to have only a day’s flight to such a nice boat with quality Caribbean diving.