Text and photos by Muriel Rosenfeld
March, 2010 Vol. 14. No. 6
“Hut-hut” Ahmed shouted as he led our camel cavalcade of fifteen intrepid adventurers across the sands of the arid Sahara desert. Wedged against the camel’s single hump, I scanned the stark horizon looking for the shimmering palms of our destination. The tall trees signaled the riparian area of the nearest oasis. As the camel lumbered, I realized that Tunisia was going to be a very special experience.
Located between Northern Africa’s Algeria and Libya, Tunisia is a blend of Berber, Islamic and French cultures. Five daily calls to prayer and numerous mosques and souks, with a population that is almost 100% Muslim, remind the visitor that the country remains part of the Arab world. Although conquered by Arab tribes around 700 AD, France’s 19th century occupation left a lingering Western influence when Tunisia gained its independence in 1956. Today, the country remains a secular republic with an elected Prime Minister. Culturally, locals still dress in caftans, shawls, sandals and red felt hats or chechias, a traditional Ottoman felt hat.
Cuisine is primarily Arabic with delicacies like roasted lamb, brik (a deep fried egg in filo pastry) and couscous. Yet, French bread, served at every meal, replaces pita or flat bread. Wine is available at select hotels and restaurants. French remains a second language to Arabic.
Capital Tunis and its environs remind the traveler of a lush European Mediterranean vacation spot. Sidi-Bou-Said, a charming quaint village, is an affluent northern suburb located on the Mediterranean. Attractive to tourists, it is also a popular cruise ship destination. Narrow streets are closed to larger vehicles, villas are designed with blue wrought iron grill work that cover windows and also serve to ward off mosquitoes. Pricey shops and restaurants offer a wide selection and good quality. The artistic workmanship of silver jewelry is some of the best in Tunisia. Popular souvenirs include Berber silver chains, wire bird cages, ceramics, copperware, carpets and wooden puppets.
Southward along the eastern coast, olive groves and sandy beaches are plentiful. Monastir, Sousse, Sfax and Gabes are several cities worth exploring. Noted for its temperate Mediterranean climate, Sousse is known as the “Pearl of the Sahel.” Gabes, Tunisia’s second largest city, was once a Barbary pirate stronghold. In 1804, the United States defeated the Barbary pirates putting an end to two hundred years of their terrorizing ships on the Mediterranean. Habib Bourguiba, Tunisia’s first President, was born in Monastir and his modest home and mausoleum is opened for viewing.
Kairouan is considered one of Islam’s holiest cities ranking behind Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem. Its Great Mosque, located in the medina, is within the walled part of the Islamic city surrounded by narrow winding streets filled with shops. The Great Mosque, closed to non-believers, is furnished in middle-eastern carpets, decorative tiles and low hanging lights.
Prior to French colonization, Tunisia went trough a variety of conquerors including Phoenicians, Carthagians, Romans, Vandals, Byzantines, and Arab tribes. Fortunately for us, their occupation left many ancient ruins. The opportunity to trek through a millennium old medina or stand in the footsteps of Hannibal’s Carthage, a major ruler of the Mediterranean and Rome’s main rival, was humbling.
Carthage was destroyed by the Romans during the Punic wars. Several days are required to explore its many ruins. Byrsa Hill, overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, was the center of the original Punic Carthaginian city and many Roman and Carthaginian ruins remain. Byrsa Hill’s National Archaeological Museum displays artifacts, sculptures and even a skeleton. Another Carthaginian and Roman site is the Antonine Baths. Ancient burial stelae fascinate at the Punic Sanctuary of the Trophet.
Bardo Museum houses an eclectic collection of mosaics, sculptures, masks, vases and jewelry. It is reputed to have the finest collection of Roman and early Christian mosaics in the world. Its mosaic walls are show mythological stories and daily living scenes. Of particular interest are the tombstone mosaics from the Byzantine Tabarka chapel. The Carthage room, a former palace patio, is ornately decorated with painted plaster designs, its perimeter lined with massive Roman sculptures.
The capital city of Tunis offers an outstanding medina offering a wide variety of shopping. I made a concerted effort to trace my steps so I would not get lost in the maze. Bargaining is expected and goods are typically sold at discounts varying between 30 to 50%. Items may not always be true to their description.
South of Tunis on the Mediterranean coast is El Djem, a city featuring the world’s third largest Roman coliseum. Striding along its bleachers and wandering through interior passageways evokes ancient memories of gladiator tournaments, chariot races, and celebrations of conquests. To the west, Sbeitla, formerly a major Roman city named Sufeitla, was built using distinctive gold colored stones. Now a fraction of its original size, it also offers a great Roman ruin. Its forum and three temples, dating back to the second century AD, are monumental in scale.
Dougga, seventy three miles southwest of Tunis, offers another opportunity to view classic Roman ruins. Shadowed by the Atlas Mountains, the city overlooks a valley sown with wheat. Picturesque farming villages and sheep surround the ruins. Some of its significant structures include the Capital Temple, Amphitheatre and Licinian Baths. Located below the ruins is the triple tiered pre-Roman Libyo-Punic Mausoleum of Ateban. Dating back to 200 BC, it boasts elements of Egyptian, Greek and Persian architecture.
Matmata’s Troglodyte dwellings lie inland from the Mediterranean near Gabes. These cave homes were featured in George Lucas’s movie Star Wars. Berbers used these structures for protection and to escape the summer heat for more than 1,000 years.
The homes were built by digging a pit in desert soil to create a courtyard before rooms were excavated around its circumference. Each cave room is simply furnished with a single bed and a few decorations. Symbols of a fish and the hand print of Fatima, daughter of the Prophet Mohammad, often appear outside doorways as symbols of good luck.
Around Tunis and along the Mediterranean Sea, the landscape is filled with palms, olive groves, bougainvillea, and pomegranate trees. Further inland, the landscape becomes desert. Douz is the gateway to the Sahara. The desert is stark with almost no plant or animal life, with the exception of an occasional desert oasis characterized by a small outcropping of palm trees. A camel ride with a young handsome Arab guide dressed in traditional garb is not to be missed. For the less adventurous, camel drawn carts are available.
Along a highway leading to Algeria, the salt lake of Chott el Jerid is a white landscape that looks like snow. In the salt field, a small boat adds humor to the scene. The few rest stops along this long and lonely road sell sand roses made from crystals formed in caves are unique to this desert areas.
Prior to leaving this desert oasis, I stopped at a date farm. Teen boys climb tall palm trees using only their hands and feet, and no safety equipment, to pick the dates. November is traditionally the month for harvesting date palms and many boys skip school to earn money.
In the mountain oasis of Chebika, canyons are reminiscent of the American southwest landscapes of desert scrubs, streams, late afternoon shadows and beautiful sunsets. Managing the walkway into this canyon, uneven with abrupt elevation changes and no hand rails, requires concentration. One of its key features is a carved stone goat. Sleja gorge is another mountain oasis with stunning views of small waterfalls and streams. It was a site used in the movie The English Patient.
Tunisia, a destination for the adventurous traveler, is a great value. Tunisia is historic, exotic, and its friendly people make it feel safe.
If you go: Services in Tunisia are few and far between cities. A group tour is highly recommended. No visa is required. Cosmos Tourama offers a reasonable nine day cost of $1100.00, which did not include airfare. They are a wholesale tour operator and must be booked through a travel agency.